6.4 Powerstroke Emissions Related Failures

The 6.4 Powerstroke was introduced in 2008 and quickly became popular due to the factory twin turbo setup and new body style Ford implemented these engines into. Early 2008 Superduty trucks were known as job 1 trucks and later were replaced by the job 2 version. Job 1 trucks were notorious for the flames shooting out of the exhaust due to leaking injectors; however, Ford quickly recalled several thousand trucks and cured the issue with new software being installed. Now that these trucks are getting some miles on them since they are around 7 years old the emissions systems are beginning to fail.

The first emissions related failure most people experience is the DPF or diesel particulate filter clogging up and constantly regenerating. A common sign of DPF failure is a white or blue haze coming from the exhaust, low boost, loss of power, and the clean exhaust light constantly flashing. These trucks have to be driven at least 30 miles and sometimes more to properly regenerate the exhaust system. Farmers and other people who constantly work with these truck in off-road situations experience this more often than others. The trucks that are left idling while working or those who drive only a small amount of miles a day tend to clog up the DPF filter.

The second emissions related failure is the EGR system. The EGR also known as exhaust gas re-circulation system fails because of the coolant passages rupturing into the exhaust passage. Exhaust is sent through the EGR into the intake to lower EGT’s and cut down on the amount of oxygen allowed into the cylinder for combustion. 6.4 Powerstrokes have two EGR coolers and the EGR valve is located in the intake elbow that attaches to the intake manifold. The EGR valve gets clogged up and restricts the airflow to the intake manifold resulting in catastrophic failure. Catastrophic failure is usually a burnt or cracked piston in the number 7 or 8 cylinder. One EGR cooler stands vertically in front of the block while the second lies horizontally on the driver side behind the steering linkage. These coolers usually leak internally and sometimes externally depending on how clogged they are.

Problems usually occur on trucks that are used off-road and do not have conventional driving habits. For trucks that are being used off-road one can perform deletes with proper tuning to cure these issues. When deleting the EGR on a 6.4 it is recommended to also change the intake elbow along with eliminating the coolers. The intake elbow helps eliminate the lean condition caused by the factory intake horn where the EGR valve is present. DPF delete pipes remove the particulate filter from underneath the truck and prevent any clogs that occur because of the screen that restricts airflow. Proper tuning is required to make the truck operate without any check engine lights or warnings. Keep in mind this is for off-road situations only and not allowed for on road vehicles.

For any questions or pricing call Custom Diesel for all of your performance diesel needs!

6.0 Turbo Failure

The 6.0 Powerstroke has many issues one of which can be prevented, turbo failure. This is a common problem with these engines. The VGT turbo that comes on these motors stock can produce an amazing 325 horsepower, however, without proper maintenance can suffer a short life span. A variable geometry turbo has many advantages over other turbo designs. Vane position can change allowing engine braking to take place and work more efficiently under many different driving situations. Here are some of the common issues and how to resolve them properly.

Stuck Vanes

Variable geometry turbos on the 6.0 Powerstroke have a tendency for vanes to stick because of soot buildup from the EGR system. Deleting the EGR system is one of the best things one can do to these engines preventing the abundance of soot buildup in the intake. If the engine is not driven at a higher RPM periodically the vanes begin to stick. Once the vanes begin to stick one can suffer from less than exceptional fuel mileage, non-existent engine braking, insufficient boost, and high exhaust gas temperatures (EGT). Running the engine at a higher RPM allows the turbo to spool quick enough for the soot to be expelled.

Turbo Cool Down

When towing with the 6.0 Powerstroke some people fail to let the turbo cool off after a long haul. EGT temperatures are usually high during towing situations and when the engine is shut down prematurely it can cause damage to the turbo. The best way to resolve this issue is to purchase a turbo timer to shut the engine off once a certain EGT is achieved during idle or simply let the engine idle for a few minutes before exiting the vehicle.

Exhaust Gas Recirculation

The most common problem with the 6.0 is EGR failure. Soot from the exhaust clogs up the cooler as it is sent into the intake. The reason exhaust is sent to the intake is to reduce emissions and lower EGT. One can experience the domino effect if the EGR cooler fails. Blown head gaskets, oil cooler failure, and of course turbo issues can occur. The easiest way to prevent this is by purchasing and installing our EGR delete kit for the 6.0 Powerstroke. Our kit reroutes the coolant back into the engine with the j-tube and blocks off the port on the up pipe where the cooler attached or replace the up pipe all together with a smooth free flowing pipe.     

High Pressure Oil Pump

6.0 Powerstrokes have issues with the HPOP especially from the years 2005 on up. The HPOP has a fitting that tends to become brittle and crack causing a leak. If the leak is not noticed in time one can cause severe engine damage. The only way to resolve this issue is to put the updated STCfitting on the HPOP preventing it from cracking or leaking.

Even though these engines have so many issues plaguing them they are one of the best engines on the road. The 6.0 is a smoother operating motor than the 7.3 but due to the addition of emissions equipment and other design flaws it must be modified to operate properly.

Ford 6.0 EGR Delete Kit Install

Original EGR System Removal

Step 1: Disconnect Batteries

Step 2: Drain coolant

Step 3: Remove clips for plastic wire way located above turbo. Fold to windshield of truck.

Step 4: Remove upper fan shroud by prying away from radiator through slots figure 2.0/2.1

Step 5: Loosen hose clamps and remove intake tube figure 3.0. Then unscrew bolts and remove turbo inlet tube and PCV Valve figure 3.1

Step 6: Loosen clamps and remove charge pipe figure 4.0. Unbolt alternator and disconnect wires figure 4.1, then tilt towards front of vehicle. Note: it is not necessary to loosen belt tensioner.

 

Step 7: Disconnect downpipe by removing v-clamp from back of turbo figure 5.0 and remove the 2 bolts from the catalytic converter figure 5.1.

Step 8: Remove turbo charger. This is done by removing the two oil feed line bolts, VGT actuator wire, Up-pipe v band clamp, and the three turbo mounting bolts. It is strongly recommended to use penetrating oil on all turbo bolts, exhaust up pipe bolts, and pedestal bolts. Once these parts are removed the turbo will roll toward the passenger side of the truck and out of the pedestal. Figure 6.0

Step 9: Remove the turbo mounting pedestal, Remove the oil drain tube from the H.P.O.P cover figure 6.1 

Step 10: From under the truck loosen and remove the exhaust manifold to passenger side up- pipe bolts figure 7.0. Discard these bolts new bolts are provided and should be used during reinstallation.

Step 11: Loosen driver side up pipe bolts to exhaust manifold figure 7.1. Note: It is not required to remove driver side up-pipe, it will make passenger side easier to remove.

Step 12: From the topside of the engine loosen and remove bolts attaching factory up-pipe toy- pipe figure 8.0. Remove y-pipe, this will give you access to remove and replace the factory up- pipe. Figure 8.1

Step 13: Unbolt up-pipe from EGR cooler and remove up-pipe figure 9.0/9.1

Step 14:Loosen do not remove the intake manifold bolts on the driver’s side. Completely remove the intake manifold bolts from the passenger side and note their location using a piece of cardboard Remove the two bolts that go through the inner fan stator (located under the shroud) figure 10.0

Step 15: Remove the bolt that is used to stiffen the heater tube to the manifold (located below alternator). Bend this tab upward figure 11.0

Step 16: Remove EGR cooler mounting bolts (3 total) figure 11.1

Step 17: Lightly push down on the EGR cooler while pulling up on the intake manifold to disengage from the manifold figure 12.0

Step 18: While holding the manifold up with a small pry bar move the cooler toward the back of the engine. Continuing to hold the manifold up, lift and remove the cooler through the front of the engine. Be sure that all gaskets and o-rings are removed with the cooler figure 12.1

 

Step 19: Replace intake manifold bolts and torque to 120inlbs

Step 20: Install the 3/4” silicone hose, 3/4” 180 degree Stainless steel coolant tube provided, and the worm drive hose clamp rings loose on the hose.

Step 21: Grease the Custom Diesel billet adapter o-ring. Place into intake manifold bore. Finger tighten the two longer factory cooler mounting bolts. The third smaller bolt can be discarded figure 13.0

Step 22: Tighten billet adapter bolts to 120inlbs, while tightening make sure the o-ring stays in place and alignment is correct. Be sure not to over torque the bolts. Slide hose over the oil cooler nipple and tighten both hose clamps figure 13.1

Step 23: Remove factory EGR Valve from intake manifold and install Custom Diesel billet block off plate figure 14.0. Torque bolts to 120inlbs. Note: If vehicle throws a code or check engine light consider leaving factory EGR valve in place or install a tuner with EGR delete code.

Step 24: Install Custom Diesel 2” up-pipe using provided hardware and OEM gasket provided figure 14

Step 25: Reinstall turbo, all intake and exhaust tubes including down pipe, alternator, shroud, wires etc.in reverse order from steps 3 to 17.

Step 26: Refill with new coolant, use manufacturer recommended and mix according to label. 

Step 27: You are ready to test the Custom Diesel delete kit. Start engine and run till coolant circulates. Top off coolant system if needed. Make a close inspection for any coolant leaks or oil leaks.