Tuesday, January 27, 2015

6.4 Powerstroke Emissions Related Failures

The 6.4 Powerstroke was introduced in 2008 and quickly became popular due to the factory twin turbo setup and new body style Ford implemented these engines into. Early 2008 Superduty trucks were known as job 1 trucks and later were replaced by the job 2 version. Job 1 trucks were notorious for the flames shooting out of the exhaust due to leaking injectors; however, Ford quickly recalled several thousand trucks and cured the issue with new software being installed. Now that these trucks are getting some miles on them since they are around 7 years old the emissions systems are beginning to fail.

The first emissions related failure most people experience is the DPF or diesel particulate filter clogging up and constantly regenerating. A common sign of DPF failure is a white or blue haze coming from the exhaust, low boost, loss of power, and the clean exhaust light constantly flashing. These trucks have to be driven at least 30 miles and sometimes more to properly regenerate the exhaust system. Farmers and other people who constantly work with these truck in off-road situations experience this more often than others. The trucks that are left idling while working or those who drive only a small amount of miles a day tend to clog up the DPF filter.

The second emissions related failure is the EGR system. The EGR also known as exhaust gas re-circulation system fails because of the coolant passages rupturing into the exhaust passage. Exhaust is sent through the EGR into the intake to lower EGT’s and cut down on the amount of oxygen allowed into the cylinder for combustion. 6.4 Powerstrokes have two EGR coolers and the EGR valve is located in the intake elbow that attaches to the intake manifold. The EGR valve gets clogged up and restricts the airflow to the intake manifold resulting in catastrophic failure. Catastrophic failure is usually a burnt or cracked piston in the number 7 or 8 cylinder. One EGR cooler stands vertically in front of the block while the second lies horizontally on the driver side behind the steering linkage. These coolers usually leak internally and sometimes externally depending on how clogged they are.

Problems usually occur on trucks that are used off-road and do not have conventional driving habits. For trucks that are being used off-road one can perform deletes with proper tuning to cure these issues. When deleting the EGR on a 6.4 it is recommended to also change the intake elbow along with eliminating the coolers. The intake elbow helps eliminate the lean condition caused by the factory intake horn where the EGR valve is present. DPF delete pipes remove the particulate filter from underneath the truck and prevent any clogs that occur because of the screen that restricts airflow. Proper tuning is required to make the truck operate without any check engine lights or warnings. Keep in mind this is for off-road situations only and not allowed for on road vehicles.
For any questions or pricing call Custom Diesel for all of your performance diesel needs!

Wednesday, August 20, 2014

6.0 Turbo Failure

The 6.0 Powerstroke has many issues one of which can be prevented, turbo failure. This is a common problem with these engines. The VGT turbo that comes on these motors stock can produce an amazing 325 horsepower, however, without proper maintenance can suffer a short life span. A variable geometry turbo has many advantages over other turbo designs. Vane position can change allowing engine braking to take place and work more efficiently under many different driving situations. Here are some of the common issues and how to resolve them properly.
Stuck Vanes
Variable geometry turbos on the 6.0 Powerstroke have a tendency for vanes to stick because of soot buildup from the EGR system. Deleting the EGR system is one of the best things one can do to these engines preventing the abundance of soot buildup in the intake. If the engine is not driven at a higher RPM periodically the vanes begin to stick. Once the vanes begin to stick one can suffer from less than exceptional fuel mileage, non-existent engine braking, insufficient boost, and high exhaust gas temperatures (EGT). Running the engine at a higher RPM allows the turbo to spool quick enough for the soot to be expelled.
Turbo Cool Down
When towing with the 6.0 Powerstroke some people fail to let the turbo cool off after a long haul. EGT temperatures are usually high during towing situations and when the engine is shut down prematurely it can cause damage to the turbo. The best way to resolve this issue is to purchase a turbo timer to shut the engine off once a certain EGT is achieved during idle or simply let the engine idle for a few minutes before exiting the vehicle.
Exhaust Gas Recirculation
The most common problem with the 6.0 is EGR failure. Soot from the exhaust clogs up the cooler as it is sent into the intake. The reason exhaust is sent to the intake is to reduce emissions and lower EGT. One can experience the domino effect if the EGR cooler fails. Blown head gaskets, oil cooler failure, and of course turbo issues can occur. The easiest way to prevent this is by purchasing and installing our EGR delete kit for the 6.0 Powerstroke. Our kit reroutes the coolant back into the engine with the j-tube and blocks off the port on the up pipe where the cooler attached or replace the up pipe all together with a smooth free flowing pipe.     
High Pressure Oil Pump
6.0 Powerstrokes have issues with the HPOP especially from the years 2005 on up. The HPOP has a fitting that tends to become brittle and crack causing a leak. If the leak is not noticed in time one can cause severe engine damage. The only way to resolve this issue is to put the updated STCfitting on the HPOP preventing it from cracking or leaking.

Even though these engines have so many issues plaguing them they are one of the best engines on the road. The 6.0 is a smoother operating motor than the 7.3 but due to the addition of emissions equipment and other design flaws it must be modified to operate properly.

Thursday, August 14, 2014

The Five of the Most Common Diesel Engine Myths Busted

Misconceptions about diesel engines abound. From diesel pros and cons to the best (and worst) diesel performance parts and trucks, there are a lot of diesel engine articles and myths floating around. Diesel engine myths have tarnished diesels' reputation for years, and drivers deserve to know the truth. Here are five of the most popular diesel engine myths and misconceptions, along with a more accurate take on diesel performance, facts, and features:

1. Diesel Engines Are Too Loud
Much of the public still believes that diesel engines are all noisy, rumbling, smoke-belching monstrosities. While the earlier direct-injection diesel vehicles were indeed much more noisy, these days newer common-rail technology makes diesels nearly as quiet as gasoline engines.

2. Diesels Are Expensive to Repair and Maintain
This is a pervasive myth, but it's simply not true. The diesel engine's primary benefit is longevity. While a 300,000-mile engine might need a lift pump, a set of injectors, or even an injection pump, there rarely is a catastrophic failure. Diesel engines have very good fuel economy, especially while towing. Oil changes for diesels can be pricey, but 10,000-mile intervals are normal for newer models, so you'll pay for fewer of them.

3. Diesels Are Difficult to Start in Winter

While many believe that diesels don't start in cold weather as well as their gasoline counterparts, most modern diesels now come equipped with block heaters that bring them up to speed. Some users don’t take the time to utilize their block heaters in cold weather (or aren't aware they are an option), but this can make a big difference. Keeping your intake grid heater functioning properly, glow plugs and relay-optimal, and batteries charged, also helps significantly with cold-weather starts.

4. Propane Is Like Nitrous for a Diesel Engine

Not true -- in fact, these two fuel types are polar opposites. While both propane and nitrous are gases within an engine, adding propane is like burning an additional fuel, while the oxygen content of nitrous is tantamount to adding another turbo. Propane injection can result in a small surge of power and improve fuel economy, but nothing earth shattering. Doing this is best for unmodified engines. If used for horsepower gains, propane can ignite prematurely and lead to excess heat, holed or melted pistons, and corroded injector nozzles. Propane can be dangerous, as there's no way to regulate its ignition point. Nitrous is best used for competitions at high boost and high rpm, and it can add hundreds of hp.

5. Kerosene Is the Best Way to Keep Fuel from Gelling

No. It can help, but this requires adding quite a bit of it. You'll need a minimum of 30 percent kerosene to reduce fuel pour point by 15 degrees. Kerosene also doesn't help very much with fuel line freeze-ups. It will lower the cetane rating of diesel fuel, and fewer BTUs means less energy and lower fuel economy. It also decreases lubricity. To best prevent fuel from gelling up, use additives that are specifically made to do so.

Diesel engine myths have impacted perceptions about diesel vehicles for far too long. Drivers deserve to know the truth, and hopefully the general public will come around to a more accurate take on diesel performance parts and facts. From diesel performance misconceptions to the best diesel engine stories and diesel performance parts info, there's myth and then there's reality. Hopefully this article can help to bust some of the more insidious diesel engine myths floating around, and encourage you to not only use diesel, but to shop at Custom-Diesel.com for all of your diesel performance parts needs.

Tuesday, August 5, 2014

Ford 6.0 EGR Delete Kit Install

Original EGR System Removal
Step 1: Disconnect Batteries
Step 2: Drain coolant
Step 3: Remove clips for plastic wire way located above turbo. Fold to windshield of truck.

Step 4: Remove upper fan shroud by prying away from radiator through slots figure 2.0/2.1
Step 5: Loosen hose clamps and remove intake tube figure 3.0. Then unscrew bolts and remove turbo inlet tube and PCV Valve figure 3.1
Step 6: Loosen clamps and remove charge pipe figure 4.0. Unbolt alternator and disconnect wires figure 4.1, then tilt towards front of vehicle. Note: it is not necessary to loosen belt tensioner.
Step 7: Disconnect downpipe by removing v-clamp from back of turbo figure 5.0 and remove the 2 bolts from the catalytic converter figure 5.1.
Step 8: Remove turbo charger. This is done by removing the two oil feed line bolts, VGT actuator wire, Up-pipe v band clamp, and the three turbo mounting bolts. It is strongly recommended to use penetrating oil on all turbo bolts, exhaust up pipe bolts, and pedestal bolts. Once these parts are removed the turbo will roll toward the passenger side of the truck and out of the pedestal. Figure 6.0
Step 9: Remove the turbo mounting pedestal, Remove the oil drain tube from the H.P.O.P cover figure 6.1 
Step 10: From under the truck loosen and remove the exhaust manifold to passenger side up- pipe bolts figure 7.0. Discard these bolts new bolts are provided and should be used during reinstallation.
Step 11: Loosen driver side up pipe bolts to exhaust manifold figure 7.1. Note: It is not required to remove driver side up-pipe, it will make passenger side easier to remove.
Step 12: From the topside of the engine loosen and remove bolts attaching factory up-pipe toy- pipe figure 8.0. Remove y-pipe, this will give you access to remove and replace the factory up- pipe. Figure 8.1
Step 13: Unbolt up-pipe from EGR cooler and remove up-pipe figure 9.0/9.1
Step 14:Loosen do not remove the intake manifold bolts on the driver’s side. Completely remove the intake manifold bolts from the passenger side and note their location using a piece of cardboard Remove the two bolts that go through the inner fan stator (located under the shroud) figure 10.0
Step 15: Remove the bolt that is used to stiffen the heater tube to the manifold (located below alternator). Bend this tab upward figure 11.0
Step 16: Remove EGR cooler mounting bolts (3 total) figure 11.1
Step 17: Lightly push down on the EGR cooler while pulling up on the intake manifold to disengage from the manifold figure 12.0
Step 18: While holding the manifold up with a small pry bar move the cooler toward the back of the engine. Continuing to hold the manifold up, lift and remove the cooler through the front of the engine. Be sure that all gaskets and o-rings are removed with the cooler figure 12.1
Step 19: Replace intake manifold bolts and torque to 120inlbs
Step 20: Install the 3/4” silicone hose, 3/4” 180 degree Stainless steel coolant tube provided, and the worm drive hose clamp rings loose on the hose.
Step 21: Grease the Custom Diesel billet adapter o-ring. Place into intake manifold bore. Finger tighten the two longer factory cooler mounting bolts. The third smaller bolt can be discarded figure 13.0
Step 22: Tighten billet adapter bolts to 120inlbs, while tightening make sure the o-ring stays in place and alignment is correct. Be sure not to over torque the bolts. Slide hose over the oil cooler nipple and tighten both hose clamps figure 13.1
Step 23: Remove factory EGR Valve from intake manifold and install Custom Diesel billet block off plate figure 14.0. Torque bolts to 120inlbs. Note: If vehicle throws a code or check engine light consider leaving factory EGR valve in place or install a tuner with EGR delete code.
Step 24: Install Custom Diesel 2” up-pipe using provided hardware and OEM gasket provided figure 14
Step 25: Reinstall turbo, all intake and exhaust tubes including down pipe, alternator, shroud, wires etc.in reverse order from steps 3 to 17.
Step 26: Refill with new coolant, use manufacturer recommended and mix according to label. 
Step 27: You are ready to test the Custom Diesel delete kit. Start engine and run till coolant circulates. Top off coolant system if needed. Make a close inspection for any coolant leaks or oil leaks.

Tuesday, July 22, 2014

Got Death Wobble?

Dodge trucks are notorious for the Cummins engine, sleek appearance, and unfortunately the “death wobble.” Since Dodge made the second generation 2500 and 3500 trucks in 1994 they have experienced several drivetrain issues that are usually isolated to the front of the vehicle. The “wobble” usually occurs when a driver hits a dip or bump in the road causing the steering wheel to bounce from side to side uncontrollably.
In order to cure the wondering issues your dodge truck may have several things must be taken into consideration.
·         Ball Joints- they must be tight and not severely worn. Most Dodge owners usually have to replace ball joint regularly because of all of the movement in the front end.
·         Tie Rods- must not be bent or have any play. If a tie rod has a slight bend it can make the wobble more severe and even cause uneven tire wear.
·         Sway Bar End Links- these wear just like other suspension components. Check for bends, play, and wear around the bushing. While you are at it see if the end links are at or near a 90 degree angle pointed upward. Some lift kits cause the end links to lean forward a great deal resulting in premature suspension wear.
·         Steering Box- look for leaks and check for any play in the steering wheel. Unresponsive steering boxes can be dangerous and add to the severity of the death wobble.

Now that we have addressed the major suspension issues related to the Dodge Ram we can take a look at the solution for the “wobble.” Here at Custom Diesel we manufacture Dodge Steering Stabilizers. The stabilizer supports both frame rails preventing flex and also steadies the steering gearbox. Our Stabilizer is made out of square tubing making frame rail flex almost nonexistent. The pitman arm retaining nut is replaced with a larger one allowing it to be supported by the bearing included in our kit. Installation is very simple and takes 1-2 hours depending on the mechanics skills. If you have any questions other than what is listed above feel free to give us a call at (877)259-4977.

Monday, March 31, 2014

Solving engine coolant & head gasket problems with EGR Delete

If you own a newer diesel truck equipped with an EGR system you will more than likely experience problems with it the longer you drive it. The EGR system reintroduces soot and other harmful diesel particulates right back into the engine as opposed to getting rid of it in the exhaust. EGR systems use the engines coolant to cool hot exhaust gases as they are being reintroduced into the cylinder head. Those hot exhaust gases are introduced back into the cylinder to reduce emissions. The exhaust that is put back into the cylinder does not contain any oxygen therefore reducing exhaust gas temperatures but in turn warming the engine coolant. The warming of the engine coolant can cause blown head gaskets or any other number of problems.

Custom Diesel makes a full line of EGR deletes and can improve the performance of your diesel truck. By deleting your EGR you increase the life of your engine by not clogging it up with harmful contaminants. Are you tired of poor fuel economy? Our customers have experienced fuel economy gains of up to 5 mpg with Custom Diesel EGR deletes. With the installation of an EGR delete kit your engine coolant gets to do what is supposed to do cool the engine. Coolant will be cooler and it reduces risks of blowing a head gasket. Before the EGR delete engine coolant was doing twice the work by cooling the engine as well as the exhaust causing stress on the engine and all of its components. Some people ask when is the best time to delete my EGR? The sooner the EGR is deleted the better because that means less contaminants are entering your engine doing harm. Don’t forget Youtube we have a great video on EGR delete common questions be looking for more in the future. http://youtu.be/S8ZmD4nOBb8 Check out www.custom-diesel.comhttp://www.custom-diesel.com/egr-delete-kits/ford for all pricing on EGR deletes for your diesel performance needs.

Thursday, February 6, 2014

DIY- EGR Delete Install on 6.7 2007-2008 Dodge Ram Cummings Diesel

Here are some step by step instructions on how to install your 07-08 6.7 Cummins EGR delete.
  1. Disconnect Batteries
  2. Drain coolant
  3. Remove 4 screws from plastic cover and remove cover
  4. Loosen V-band clamps and remove cross-over pipe figure then unplug and disconnect intake valve.
  5. Remove 4 screws and electrical plug from intake valve. Remove any existing gas ket material from intake manifold.
  6. Unplug throttle valve located under intake elbow, top view of throttle valve.
  7. Install Custom Diesel Inc intake plate with supplied bolts making sure o-rings are fully seated figure 5.0. Then remove heat shield from EGR bypass figure.
  8. Remove 4 bolts to exhaust bypass.
  9. Remove exhaust servo motor and exhaust bypass together.
  10. Remove 4 EGR Cooler mounting bolts and disconnect all hoses.
  11. Remove v-band clamp from front of EGR Cooler.
  12. Pull EGR cooler up and out towards the front of the truck.
  13. Unbolt EGR cooler mounting bracket by removing the 2 bolts that attach to the block.
  14. Once bracket is removed, remove the exhaust crossover elbow, then remove the 4 bolts that hold the motor cover.
  15. Install supplied stainless steel exhaust block off plates.
  16. Next install new supplied coolant tube.
  17. Attach the provided bracket to the mounting hole on the head where the egr cooler bracket was. Use the existing bolt and bolt hole that is directly behind vertical coolant line is.
  18. Use the provided hardware to attach the dipstick tube and coolant line support bracket to the other end of the provided bracket.
  19. Additional pictures for instructions are available online