6.0 Turbo Failure

The 6.0 Powerstroke has many issues one of which can be prevented, turbo failure. This is a common problem with these engines. The VGT turbo that comes on these motors stock can produce an amazing 325 horsepower, however, without proper maintenance can suffer a short life span. A variable geometry turbo has many advantages over other turbo designs. Vane position can change allowing engine braking to take place and work more efficiently under many different driving situations. Here are some of the common issues and how to resolve them properly.

Stuck Vanes

Variable geometry turbos on the 6.0 Powerstroke have a tendency for vanes to stick because of soot buildup from the EGR system. Deleting the EGR system is one of the best things one can do to these engines preventing the abundance of soot buildup in the intake. If the engine is not driven at a higher RPM periodically the vanes begin to stick. Once the vanes begin to stick one can suffer from less than exceptional fuel mileage, non-existent engine braking, insufficient boost, and high exhaust gas temperatures (EGT). Running the engine at a higher RPM allows the turbo to spool quick enough for the soot to be expelled.

Turbo Cool Down

When towing with the 6.0 Powerstroke some people fail to let the turbo cool off after a long haul. EGT temperatures are usually high during towing situations and when the engine is shut down prematurely it can cause damage to the turbo. The best way to resolve this issue is to purchase a turbo timer to shut the engine off once a certain EGT is achieved during idle or simply let the engine idle for a few minutes before exiting the vehicle.

Exhaust Gas Recirculation

The most common problem with the 6.0 is EGR failure. Soot from the exhaust clogs up the cooler as it is sent into the intake. The reason exhaust is sent to the intake is to reduce emissions and lower EGT. One can experience the domino effect if the EGR cooler fails. Blown head gaskets, oil cooler failure, and of course turbo issues can occur. The easiest way to prevent this is by purchasing and installing our EGR delete kit for the 6.0 Powerstroke. Our kit reroutes the coolant back into the engine with the j-tube and blocks off the port on the up pipe where the cooler attached or replace the up pipe all together with a smooth free flowing pipe.     

High Pressure Oil Pump

6.0 Powerstrokes have issues with the HPOP especially from the years 2005 on up. The HPOP has a fitting that tends to become brittle and crack causing a leak. If the leak is not noticed in time one can cause severe engine damage. The only way to resolve this issue is to put the updated STCfitting on the HPOP preventing it from cracking or leaking.

Even though these engines have so many issues plaguing them they are one of the best engines on the road. The 6.0 is a smoother operating motor than the 7.3 but due to the addition of emissions equipment and other design flaws it must be modified to operate properly.

The Five of the Most Common Diesel Engine Myths Busted

Misconceptions about diesel engines abound. From diesel pros and cons to the best (and worst) diesel performance parts and trucks, there are a lot of diesel engine articles and myths floating around. Diesel engine myths have tarnished diesels' reputation for years, and drivers deserve to know the truth. Here are five of the most popular diesel engine myths and misconceptions, along with a more accurate take on diesel performance, facts, and features:

1. Diesel Engines Are Too Loud

Much of the public still believes that diesel engines are all noisy, rumbling, smoke-belching monstrosities. While the earlier direct-injection diesel vehicles were indeed much more noisy, these days newer common-rail technology makes diesels nearly as quiet as gasoline engines.

2. Diesels Are Expensive to Repair and Maintain

This is a pervasive myth, but it's simply not true. The diesel engine's primary benefit is longevity. While a 300,000-mile engine might need a lift pump, a set of injectors, or even an injection pump, there rarely is a catastrophic failure. Diesel engines have very good fuel economy, especially while towing. Oil changes for diesels can be pricey, but 10,000-mile intervals are normal for newer models, so you'll pay for fewer of them.

3. Diesels Are Difficult to Start in Winter

While many believe that diesels don't start in cold weather as well as their gasoline counterparts, most modern diesels now come equipped with block heaters that bring them up to speed. Some users don’t take the time to utilize their block heaters in cold weather (or aren't aware they are an option), but this can make a big difference. Keeping your intake grid heater functioning properly, glow plugs and relay-optimal, and batteries charged, also helps significantly with cold-weather starts.

4. Propane Is Like Nitrous for a Diesel Engine

Not true -- in fact, these two fuel types are polar opposites. While both propane and nitrous are gases within an engine, adding propane is like burning an additional fuel, while the oxygen content of nitrous is tantamount to adding another turbo. Propane injection can result in a small surge of power and improve fuel economy, but nothing earth shattering. Doing this is best for unmodified engines. If used for horsepower gains, propane can ignite prematurely and lead to excess heat, holed or melted pistons, and corroded injector nozzles. Propane can be dangerous, as there's no way to regulate its ignition point. Nitrous is best used for competitions at high boost and high rpm, and it can add hundreds of hp.

5. Kerosene Is the Best Way to Keep Fuel from Gelling

No. It can help, but this requires adding quite a bit of it. You'll need a minimum of 30 percent kerosene to reduce fuel pour point by 15 degrees. Kerosene also doesn't help very much with fuel line freeze-ups. It will lower the cetane rating of diesel fuel, and fewer BTUs means less energy and lower fuel economy. It also decreases lubricity. To best prevent fuel from gelling up, use additives that are specifically made to do so.

Diesel engine myths have impacted perceptions about diesel vehicles for far too long. Drivers deserve to know the truth, and hopefully the general public will come around to a more accurate take on diesel performance parts and facts. From diesel performance misconceptions to the best diesel engine stories and diesel performance parts info, there's myth and then there's reality. Hopefully this article can help to bust some of the more insidious diesel engine myths floating around, and encourage you to not only use diesel, but to shop at Custom-Diesel.com for all of your diesel performance parts needs.

Ford 6.0 EGR Delete Kit Install

Original EGR System Removal

Step 1: Disconnect Batteries

Step 2: Drain coolant

Step 3: Remove clips for plastic wire way located above turbo. Fold to windshield of truck.

Step 4: Remove upper fan shroud by prying away from radiator through slots figure 2.0/2.1

Step 5: Loosen hose clamps and remove intake tube figure 3.0. Then unscrew bolts and remove turbo inlet tube and PCV Valve figure 3.1

Step 6: Loosen clamps and remove charge pipe figure 4.0. Unbolt alternator and disconnect wires figure 4.1, then tilt towards front of vehicle. Note: it is not necessary to loosen belt tensioner.

 

Step 7: Disconnect downpipe by removing v-clamp from back of turbo figure 5.0 and remove the 2 bolts from the catalytic converter figure 5.1.

Step 8: Remove turbo charger. This is done by removing the two oil feed line bolts, VGT actuator wire, Up-pipe v band clamp, and the three turbo mounting bolts. It is strongly recommended to use penetrating oil on all turbo bolts, exhaust up pipe bolts, and pedestal bolts. Once these parts are removed the turbo will roll toward the passenger side of the truck and out of the pedestal. Figure 6.0

Step 9: Remove the turbo mounting pedestal, Remove the oil drain tube from the H.P.O.P cover figure 6.1 

Step 10: From under the truck loosen and remove the exhaust manifold to passenger side up- pipe bolts figure 7.0. Discard these bolts new bolts are provided and should be used during reinstallation.

Step 11: Loosen driver side up pipe bolts to exhaust manifold figure 7.1. Note: It is not required to remove driver side up-pipe, it will make passenger side easier to remove.

Step 12: From the topside of the engine loosen and remove bolts attaching factory up-pipe toy- pipe figure 8.0. Remove y-pipe, this will give you access to remove and replace the factory up- pipe. Figure 8.1

Step 13: Unbolt up-pipe from EGR cooler and remove up-pipe figure 9.0/9.1

Step 14:Loosen do not remove the intake manifold bolts on the driver’s side. Completely remove the intake manifold bolts from the passenger side and note their location using a piece of cardboard Remove the two bolts that go through the inner fan stator (located under the shroud) figure 10.0

Step 15: Remove the bolt that is used to stiffen the heater tube to the manifold (located below alternator). Bend this tab upward figure 11.0

Step 16: Remove EGR cooler mounting bolts (3 total) figure 11.1

Step 17: Lightly push down on the EGR cooler while pulling up on the intake manifold to disengage from the manifold figure 12.0

Step 18: While holding the manifold up with a small pry bar move the cooler toward the back of the engine. Continuing to hold the manifold up, lift and remove the cooler through the front of the engine. Be sure that all gaskets and o-rings are removed with the cooler figure 12.1

 

Step 19: Replace intake manifold bolts and torque to 120inlbs

Step 20: Install the 3/4” silicone hose, 3/4” 180 degree Stainless steel coolant tube provided, and the worm drive hose clamp rings loose on the hose.

Step 21: Grease the Custom Diesel billet adapter o-ring. Place into intake manifold bore. Finger tighten the two longer factory cooler mounting bolts. The third smaller bolt can be discarded figure 13.0

Step 22: Tighten billet adapter bolts to 120inlbs, while tightening make sure the o-ring stays in place and alignment is correct. Be sure not to over torque the bolts. Slide hose over the oil cooler nipple and tighten both hose clamps figure 13.1

Step 23: Remove factory EGR Valve from intake manifold and install Custom Diesel billet block off plate figure 14.0. Torque bolts to 120inlbs. Note: If vehicle throws a code or check engine light consider leaving factory EGR valve in place or install a tuner with EGR delete code.

Step 24: Install Custom Diesel 2” up-pipe using provided hardware and OEM gasket provided figure 14

Step 25: Reinstall turbo, all intake and exhaust tubes including down pipe, alternator, shroud, wires etc.in reverse order from steps 3 to 17.

Step 26: Refill with new coolant, use manufacturer recommended and mix according to label. 

Step 27: You are ready to test the Custom Diesel delete kit. Start engine and run till coolant circulates. Top off coolant system if needed. Make a close inspection for any coolant leaks or oil leaks.

Got Death Wobble?

Dodge trucks are notorious for the Cummins engine, sleek appearance, and unfortunately the “death wobble.” Since Dodge made the second generation 2500 and 3500 trucks in 1994 they have experienced several drivetrain issues that are usually isolated to the front of the vehicle. The “wobble” usually occurs when a driver hits a dip or bump in the road causing the steering wheel to bounce from side to side uncontrollably.

In order to cure the wondering issues your dodge truck may have several things must be taken into consideration.

·         Ball Joints- they must be tight and not severely worn. Most Dodge owners usually have to replace ball joint regularly because of all of the movement in the front end.

·         Tie Rods- must not be bent or have any play. If a tie rod has a slight bend it can make the wobble more severe and even cause uneven tire wear.

·         Sway Bar End Links- these wear just like other suspension components. Check for bends, play, and wear around the bushing. While you are at it see if the end links are at or near a 90 degree angle pointed upward. Some lift kits cause the end links to lean forward a great deal resulting in premature suspension wear.

·         Steering Box- look for leaks and check for any play in the steering wheel. Unresponsive steering boxes can be dangerous and add to the severity of the death wobble.

Now that we have addressed the major suspension issues related to the Dodge Ram we can take a look at the solution for the “wobble.” Here at Custom Diesel we manufacture Dodge Steering Stabilizers. The stabilizer supports both frame rails preventing flex and also steadies the steering gearbox. Our Stabilizer is made out of square tubing making frame rail flex almost nonexistent. The pitman arm retaining nut is replaced with a larger one allowing it to be supported by the bearing included in our kit. Installation is very simple and takes 1-2 hours depending on the mechanics skills. If you have any questions other than what is listed above feel free to give us a call at (877)259-4977.

Solving engine coolant & head gasket problems with EGR Delete

If you own a newer diesel truck equipped with an EGR system you will more than likely experience problems with it the longer you drive it. The EGR system reintroduces soot and other harmful diesel particulates right back into the engine as opposed to getting rid of it in the exhaust. EGR systems use the engines coolant to cool hot exhaust gases as they are being reintroduced into the cylinder head. Those hot exhaust gases are introduced back into the cylinder to reduce emissions. The exhaust that is put back into the cylinder does not contain any oxygen therefore reducing exhaust gas temperatures but in turn warming the engine coolant. The warming of the engine coolant can cause blown head gaskets or any other number of problems.

Custom Diesel makes a full line of EGR deletes and can improve the performance of your diesel truck. By deleting your EGR you increase the life of your engine by not clogging it up with harmful contaminants. Are you tired of poor fuel economy? Our customers have experienced fuel economy gains of up to 5 mpg with Custom Diesel EGR deletes. With the installation of an EGR delete kit your engine coolant gets to do what is supposed to do cool the engine. Coolant will be cooler and it reduces risks of blowing a head gasket. Before the EGR delete engine coolant was doing twice the work by cooling the engine as well as the exhaust causing stress on the engine and all of its components. Some people ask when is the best time to delete my EGR? The sooner the EGR is deleted the better because that means less contaminants are entering your engine doing harm. Don’t forget Youtube we have a great video on EGR delete common questions be looking for more in the future. http://youtu.be/S8ZmD4nOBb8 Check out www.custom-diesel.comhttp://www.custom-diesel.com/egr-delete-kits/ford for all pricing on EGR deletes for your diesel performance needs.

DIY- EGR Delete Install on 6.7 2007-2008 Dodge Ram Cummings Diesel

Here are some step by step instructions on how to install your 07-08 6.7 Cummins EGR delete.

1. Disconnect Batteries
2. Drain coolant
3. Remove 4 screws from plastic cover and remove cover
4. Loosen V-band clamps and remove cross-over pipe figure then unplug and disconnect intake valve.
5. Remove 4 screws and electrical plug from intake valve. Remove any existing gas ket material from intake manifold.
6. Unplug throttle valve located under intake elbow, top view of throttle valve.
7. Install Custom Diesel Inc intake plate with supplied bolts making sure o-rings are fully seated figure 5.0. Then remove heat shield from EGR bypass figure.
8. Remove 4 bolts to exhaust bypass.
9. Remove exhaust servo motor and exhaust bypass together.
10. Remove 4 EGR Cooler mounting bolts and disconnect all hoses.
11. Remove v-band clamp from front of EGR Cooler.
12. Pull EGR cooler up and out towards the front of the truck.
13. Unbolt EGR cooler mounting bracket by removing the 2 bolts that attach to the block.
14. Once bracket is removed, remove the exhaust crossover elbow, then remove the 4 bolts that hold the motor cover.
15. Install supplied stainless steel exhaust block off plates.
16. Next install new supplied coolant tube.
17. Attach the provided bracket to the mounting hole on the head where the egr cooler bracket was. Use the existing bolt and bolt hole that is directly behind vertical coolant line is.
18. Use the provided hardware to attach the dipstick tube and coolant line support bracket to the other end of the provided bracket.
19. Additional pictures for instructions are available online

DIY- EGR Delete Install on 6.4 Ford Powerstroke Diesel

DIY- EGR Delete Install on 6.4Powerstroke

Here are some step by step instructions on how to install your 6.4 Powerstroke EGR delete.

1. Make sure the front wheels are straight.
2. Disconnect both batteries.
3. Drain the coolant using the coolant drain plug located on the bottom of the radiator on the driver side.
4. Remove the 3/8” hose that runs to the degas bottle. *Save this hose, as you will need it later on.*
5. Remove the upper radiator hose by popping the wire clip out and pulling the hose straight out.
6. Remove the driver side battery and battery tray by removing the four bolts. The degas bottle is attached to the battery tray so be sure to disconnect all coolant lines going to the degas bottle as well as the vacuum line running to the battery tray.
7. Disconnect the electrical connector at the top of the vertical cooler followed by the band clamps that hold it in place, as well as the nut and bolt that hold the top of the cooler.
8. Loosen the clamp on the intercooler tube and pull the tube out of the boot. *It is not necessary to remove the entire intercooler tube.*
9. Disconnect the two coolers from each other by removing the two nuts on the back of the flange and prying the two flanges apart.
10. Hold the intercooler tube back while pulling the cooler up and out. You may need to try rotating the cooler to get it out of the mount.
11. Remove the plastic coolant “Y”. It is brittle so be careful when removing it.
12. Remove the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing. *If the upper radiator hose is the old version with the single o-ring, you should replace it with the new double o-ring version.* The older version is all black, where as the new version has a whit e end that goes to the thermostat housing.
13. Remove the upper EGR cooler mount. There are three head bolts, and one head stud. *Be sure to keep the stud, as you will need it later on to secure the power steering line.*
14. Remove the nut that secures the dipstick tube in place. Do not discard nut.
15. Remove the steering shaft bolt and slide the stem up and off of the steering box side. Be sure not to turn the steering wheel or tires.
16. Loosen and remove the nuts on the band clamps that hold the lower egr cooler in place. In some cases it may be easier to get them through the wheel well.
17. Remove the rear cooler hose. It may be easier to cut this hose.
18. Remove the two bolts from the rear of the cooler; it is easiest to remove the top bolt from above and the bottom bolt from underneath the truck.
19. Rotate the cooler and pull it forwards to remove it from the bracket. You will need to move the dipstick out of the way to do so.
20. At the front of the coolant line that is attached to the cooler bracket, remove the bolt that holds the coolant tube to the timing cover. *The tube and the cooler bracket will come off in one piece.*
21. Remove the four bolts from the lower cooler bracket.
22. Install the four new exhaust manifold bolts and torque to factory specs.
23. Install the exhaust block off plate using the 2 new bolts and nuts and exhaust gasket
24. Re-install the dipstick hold down nut.
25. Remove the upper cooler hose and steel tube that was attached to the top of the upper cooler and discard.
26. Install the coolant plugs using the factory hardware in place of the lines that came from the cooler.
27. Re-install the stud that was saved from step 12 with the standoff that has been provided then re-install the power steering line support bracket.
28. Re-install the plastic “Y” being careful not to break it.
29. Reconnect the steering shaft and torque to factory specs.
30. Re-install the battery box. Remember to hook up both coolant lines and the small vacuum line.
31. Clean the end of the silicone boot and intercooler tube and re-install.
32. Re-install the upper radiator hose making sure that the metal clips are securely in place.
33. Install the egr block off plate where the top of the upper cooler was attached. *We have supplied two bolts for this plate so that the stud can be remover if you choose to do so.*
34. Use the 3/8” hose that was saved from step 4 to make a piece to reconnect the coolant line to degas bottle and splice it together using the supplied nipple and the existing hose clamps. Use the black routing clips to hold the line in place.
35. Re-route the loose coolant hose on top of the engine back around open coolant port next to the egr block off plate using the factory hose clamps.
36. Fill the truck up with the correct coolant and run the truck checking for leaks. Once the truck reaches operating temperature, top off the coolant.
37. You can see pictures and descriptions of the above install at http://custom-diesel.com/pdf/6.4%20EGR%20Delete%20Kit.pdf

Click here to view and purchase Ford 6.4 EGR Delete Kits

Pros and Cons of an EGR Delete Kits

Deleting the EGR on a diesel engine creates several pros and cons.

Pros

• Elimination of harmful contaminates being reintroduced back into the engine.
• Warm exhaust gases being sent away from the engine through the vehicles exhaust system.
• Increase in the Diesel mpg. Some people experience gains of almost 5 mpg making this a very fuel efficient modification.
• Engine coolant will not be as warm because it doesn’t have to cool the exhaust like it did when the EGR was still on the vehicle.
• Increase in the longevity of the engine because it will be running cleaner and more efficiently.
• Depending on the truck one has you can experience faster turbo spool up.
• Coolant will flow faster through the engine because it will not be diverted by the EGR cooler.
• Less likely to have a blown head gasket.
• Examples of Custom Diesel EGR Delete Kits
  • Ford- http://www.custom-diesel.com/egr-delete-kits/ford-egr-delete-kits/6-0-egr-delete-kits
  • Dodge- http://www.custom-diesel.com/egr-delete-kits/dodge-egr-delete-kits/6-7-cummins

Cons

• Increase in EGT because the non oxygen containing exhaust is not being readmitted back into the cylinder to keep EGT’s low.
• Some of the cons would be created by the oil cooler on the 6.0 Powerstroke but they can be prevented by regular maintenance. Other Diesel engines may differ depending on design and year model.
  • Flush coolant
  • Change coolant filter
  • Some people install new oil coolers during EGR deletes to decrease chances of having a faulty cooler creating a leak and more down time because of engine repair.

As you can see the EGR delete definitely has more pros than cons. Custom Diesel makes EGR delete kits for your performance diesel truck to handle whatever you do whether it’s driving on the street or racing the ¼ mile. Order your EGR from www.custom-diesel.com

6.0 Powerstroke Diesel Performance

Do you own or are you considering the purchase of a 6.0 Powerstroke? If so Custom Diesel is the place to buy all the performance parts you need. As most people know the 6.0 Powerstroke has been plagued by problems from the factory however with a few modifications one can have quite possibly the most reliable truck on the road. These engines have been known for problems with their head gaskets because of overheating mainly because of the EGR system. Like most diesel owners we all want a little more power than we receive from the stock computer tunes this is where Custom Diesel can help for your 6.0 diesel solutions.

The first thing we recommend is the purchase of our Custom Diesel EGR delete. This delete package is one of the most critical parts to giving your 6.0 Powerstroke that lasting performance we all want from our diesel engines. The EGR system cools exhaust gases as it sends them back into the engine to reduce emissions. When the exhaust is sent back into the intake it gets clogged up with soot and other harmful diesel particulates. By installing this delete kit you will do many things to help your engine. Engine coolant will be cooler preventing the possibility of blowing a head gasket resulting in costly repairs. You will receive better fuel economy. Some customers have experienced gains of almost 5 mpg. The up pipe we manufacture can also increase turbo spool up resulting in quicker boost.

Next on the list would be the install of ARP head studs. If you want to have the added power from a tuner head studs are a must. With the added power from a tuner the factory head bolts can become stretched and result in a blown head gasket with high performance tunes. Head studs can handle large amounts of power that can be made with the 6.0 engine. If you are going to do a head stud install it is best to lift the cab so you will have more room to work with. We also offer head gaskets in some of our solution kits.

Now that we have the cooling and head gasket issue solved it is time to add the high performance parts. In order to get the most from a tuner your truck must breathe well and that means the addition of an exhaust and intake. At Custom Diesel you can order single or dual performance exhausts. It’s just personal preference from there. Factory air intake boxes are good for almost 500 horses in some cases but if you seek more horsepower than that I’d recommend an aftermarket intake. We offer several different tuner options like the SCT SF3 programmer. It has three preloaded tunes with power levels capable of up to 150 additional horsepower and even economy tunes of 75 horsepower. This tuner has the ability to upload custom tunes from the internet also.

Other performance options would be the addition of an aftermarket turbo as opposed to the stock turbo. One we offer is the Industrial Injection Garret Power Max Stage One. This Turbo will help increase spool up by maximize power output but keeping turbo speeds down for the same output. This turbo can support up to an additional 175 horsepower over stock and would be a good replacement for a stock one also. All of these products are available on our website and are ready for purchase at anytime. This setup has been proven over time to be reliable and make nice amounts of power also.