Wednesday, August 20, 2014

6.0 Turbo Failure

The 6.0 Powerstroke has many issues one of which can be prevented, turbo failure. This is a common problem with these engines. The VGT turbo that comes on these motors stock can produce an amazing 325 horsepower, however, without proper maintenance can suffer a short life span. A variable geometry turbo has many advantages over other turbo designs. Vane position can change allowing engine braking to take place and work more efficiently under many different driving situations. Here are some of the common issues and how to resolve them properly.
Stuck Vanes
Variable geometry turbos on the 6.0 Powerstroke have a tendency for vanes to stick because of soot buildup from the EGR system. Deleting the EGR system is one of the best things one can do to these engines preventing the abundance of soot buildup in the intake. If the engine is not driven at a higher RPM periodically the vanes begin to stick. Once the vanes begin to stick one can suffer from less than exceptional fuel mileage, non-existent engine braking, insufficient boost, and high exhaust gas temperatures (EGT). Running the engine at a higher RPM allows the turbo to spool quick enough for the soot to be expelled.
Turbo Cool Down
When towing with the 6.0 Powerstroke some people fail to let the turbo cool off after a long haul. EGT temperatures are usually high during towing situations and when the engine is shut down prematurely it can cause damage to the turbo. The best way to resolve this issue is to purchase a turbo timer to shut the engine off once a certain EGT is achieved during idle or simply let the engine idle for a few minutes before exiting the vehicle.
Exhaust Gas Recirculation
The most common problem with the 6.0 is EGR failure. Soot from the exhaust clogs up the cooler as it is sent into the intake. The reason exhaust is sent to the intake is to reduce emissions and lower EGT. One can experience the domino effect if the EGR cooler fails. Blown head gaskets, oil cooler failure, and of course turbo issues can occur. The easiest way to prevent this is by purchasing and installing our EGR delete kit for the 6.0 Powerstroke. Our kit reroutes the coolant back into the engine with the j-tube and blocks off the port on the up pipe where the cooler attached or replace the up pipe all together with a smooth free flowing pipe.     
High Pressure Oil Pump
6.0 Powerstrokes have issues with the HPOP especially from the years 2005 on up. The HPOP has a fitting that tends to become brittle and crack causing a leak. If the leak is not noticed in time one can cause severe engine damage. The only way to resolve this issue is to put the updated STCfitting on the HPOP preventing it from cracking or leaking.

Even though these engines have so many issues plaguing them they are one of the best engines on the road. The 6.0 is a smoother operating motor than the 7.3 but due to the addition of emissions equipment and other design flaws it must be modified to operate properly.

Thursday, August 14, 2014

The Five of the Most Common Diesel Engine Myths Busted

Misconceptions about diesel engines abound. From diesel pros and cons to the best (and worst) diesel performance parts and trucks, there are a lot of diesel engine articles and myths floating around. Diesel engine myths have tarnished diesels' reputation for years, and drivers deserve to know the truth. Here are five of the most popular diesel engine myths and misconceptions, along with a more accurate take on diesel performance, facts, and features:

1. Diesel Engines Are Too Loud
Much of the public still believes that diesel engines are all noisy, rumbling, smoke-belching monstrosities. While the earlier direct-injection diesel vehicles were indeed much more noisy, these days newer common-rail technology makes diesels nearly as quiet as gasoline engines.

2. Diesels Are Expensive to Repair and Maintain
This is a pervasive myth, but it's simply not true. The diesel engine's primary benefit is longevity. While a 300,000-mile engine might need a lift pump, a set of injectors, or even an injection pump, there rarely is a catastrophic failure. Diesel engines have very good fuel economy, especially while towing. Oil changes for diesels can be pricey, but 10,000-mile intervals are normal for newer models, so you'll pay for fewer of them.

3. Diesels Are Difficult to Start in Winter

While many believe that diesels don't start in cold weather as well as their gasoline counterparts, most modern diesels now come equipped with block heaters that bring them up to speed. Some users don’t take the time to utilize their block heaters in cold weather (or aren't aware they are an option), but this can make a big difference. Keeping your intake grid heater functioning properly, glow plugs and relay-optimal, and batteries charged, also helps significantly with cold-weather starts.

4. Propane Is Like Nitrous for a Diesel Engine

Not true -- in fact, these two fuel types are polar opposites. While both propane and nitrous are gases within an engine, adding propane is like burning an additional fuel, while the oxygen content of nitrous is tantamount to adding another turbo. Propane injection can result in a small surge of power and improve fuel economy, but nothing earth shattering. Doing this is best for unmodified engines. If used for horsepower gains, propane can ignite prematurely and lead to excess heat, holed or melted pistons, and corroded injector nozzles. Propane can be dangerous, as there's no way to regulate its ignition point. Nitrous is best used for competitions at high boost and high rpm, and it can add hundreds of hp.

5. Kerosene Is the Best Way to Keep Fuel from Gelling

No. It can help, but this requires adding quite a bit of it. You'll need a minimum of 30 percent kerosene to reduce fuel pour point by 15 degrees. Kerosene also doesn't help very much with fuel line freeze-ups. It will lower the cetane rating of diesel fuel, and fewer BTUs means less energy and lower fuel economy. It also decreases lubricity. To best prevent fuel from gelling up, use additives that are specifically made to do so.

Diesel engine myths have impacted perceptions about diesel vehicles for far too long. Drivers deserve to know the truth, and hopefully the general public will come around to a more accurate take on diesel performance parts and facts. From diesel performance misconceptions to the best diesel engine stories and diesel performance parts info, there's myth and then there's reality. Hopefully this article can help to bust some of the more insidious diesel engine myths floating around, and encourage you to not only use diesel, but to shop at Custom-Diesel.com for all of your diesel performance parts needs.

Tuesday, August 5, 2014

Ford 6.0 EGR Delete Kit Install

Original EGR System Removal
Step 1: Disconnect Batteries
Step 2: Drain coolant
Step 3: Remove clips for plastic wire way located above turbo. Fold to windshield of truck.

Step 4: Remove upper fan shroud by prying away from radiator through slots figure 2.0/2.1
Step 5: Loosen hose clamps and remove intake tube figure 3.0. Then unscrew bolts and remove turbo inlet tube and PCV Valve figure 3.1
Step 6: Loosen clamps and remove charge pipe figure 4.0. Unbolt alternator and disconnect wires figure 4.1, then tilt towards front of vehicle. Note: it is not necessary to loosen belt tensioner.
 
Step 7: Disconnect downpipe by removing v-clamp from back of turbo figure 5.0 and remove the 2 bolts from the catalytic converter figure 5.1.
Step 8: Remove turbo charger. This is done by removing the two oil feed line bolts, VGT actuator wire, Up-pipe v band clamp, and the three turbo mounting bolts. It is strongly recommended to use penetrating oil on all turbo bolts, exhaust up pipe bolts, and pedestal bolts. Once these parts are removed the turbo will roll toward the passenger side of the truck and out of the pedestal. Figure 6.0
Step 9: Remove the turbo mounting pedestal, Remove the oil drain tube from the H.P.O.P cover figure 6.1 
Step 10: From under the truck loosen and remove the exhaust manifold to passenger side up- pipe bolts figure 7.0. Discard these bolts new bolts are provided and should be used during reinstallation.
Step 11: Loosen driver side up pipe bolts to exhaust manifold figure 7.1. Note: It is not required to remove driver side up-pipe, it will make passenger side easier to remove.
Step 12: From the topside of the engine loosen and remove bolts attaching factory up-pipe toy- pipe figure 8.0. Remove y-pipe, this will give you access to remove and replace the factory up- pipe. Figure 8.1
Step 13: Unbolt up-pipe from EGR cooler and remove up-pipe figure 9.0/9.1
Step 14:Loosen do not remove the intake manifold bolts on the driver’s side. Completely remove the intake manifold bolts from the passenger side and note their location using a piece of cardboard Remove the two bolts that go through the inner fan stator (located under the shroud) figure 10.0
Step 15: Remove the bolt that is used to stiffen the heater tube to the manifold (located below alternator). Bend this tab upward figure 11.0
Step 16: Remove EGR cooler mounting bolts (3 total) figure 11.1
Step 17: Lightly push down on the EGR cooler while pulling up on the intake manifold to disengage from the manifold figure 12.0
Step 18: While holding the manifold up with a small pry bar move the cooler toward the back of the engine. Continuing to hold the manifold up, lift and remove the cooler through the front of the engine. Be sure that all gaskets and o-rings are removed with the cooler figure 12.1
 
Step 19: Replace intake manifold bolts and torque to 120inlbs
Step 20: Install the 3/4” silicone hose, 3/4” 180 degree Stainless steel coolant tube provided, and the worm drive hose clamp rings loose on the hose.
Step 21: Grease the Custom Diesel billet adapter o-ring. Place into intake manifold bore. Finger tighten the two longer factory cooler mounting bolts. The third smaller bolt can be discarded figure 13.0
Step 22: Tighten billet adapter bolts to 120inlbs, while tightening make sure the o-ring stays in place and alignment is correct. Be sure not to over torque the bolts. Slide hose over the oil cooler nipple and tighten both hose clamps figure 13.1
Step 23: Remove factory EGR Valve from intake manifold and install Custom Diesel billet block off plate figure 14.0. Torque bolts to 120inlbs. Note: If vehicle throws a code or check engine light consider leaving factory EGR valve in place or install a tuner with EGR delete code.
Step 24: Install Custom Diesel 2” up-pipe using provided hardware and OEM gasket provided figure 14
Step 25: Reinstall turbo, all intake and exhaust tubes including down pipe, alternator, shroud, wires etc.in reverse order from steps 3 to 17.
Step 26: Refill with new coolant, use manufacturer recommended and mix according to label. 
Step 27: You are ready to test the Custom Diesel delete kit. Start engine and run till coolant circulates. Top off coolant system if needed. Make a close inspection for any coolant leaks or oil leaks.